Cook and Crocodiles

Cooktown is as far north as we are travelling. The CP is nestled amongst ferns, palms and other tropical vegetation. The Cooktown Botanical Gardens sprawl over a large area and like most gardens, provide a quiet place to amble looking at different plants. A cricket oval abuts the gardens and a friendly Sunday afternoon game was in progress as we moved from one area to another. John and Robert gravitated to the cries and shouts of the players whilst I found a shady spot to sit and listen to the calls of different birds. Lorraine roamed the gardens looking for the orchid house, which was a tad disappointing with only a few orchids.

Cricket spectators

Cairns to Cooktown

From Cairns to Cooktown is over 300kms. The highway hugs the coast for a while  then beaches are replaced with sugar cane plantations meeting the road on both sides. A small gauge railway track provides the transport for the cut cane once cropping has occurred. 

The better road to Cairns veers off to cut through savannah-like vegetation as it winds its way inland. The changes in the vegetation are similar to our arrival in Milaa Milaa except the reverse.


coast road

lots of inlets, coves, bays but also crocodiles

sugar cane fields

inland road to Cooktown




We arrived at Cooktown CP and were greeted by very friendly people. The weather at the moment is unseasonal and according to them, cold! We're in sleeveless tops and shorts.

It is a windy place but that keeps the flies away and also makes the humidity very easy to cope with.

Off exploring tomorrow and the men might get in some fishing although we don't need to count on them for fish as a local fisherman drives around the van park every night at 5:00 p.m. to the tune of "Octopus' Garden" selling fresh seafood. We did have a lovely meal of barrumundi tonight ("caught" at the fish market in Cairns). Lots of eateries in town too so we'll have to check them out.

Robert (the dog)

Have to share this with you; staying at Lake Placid Caravan Park over the last few days was an opportunity to do even more relaxing and get to know some of the other travellers. Across the road from us was a portly man, who owned 2 terrier dogs, one was called Robert.

He spoke to his dogs as though they were humans (a lot of pet owners do this knowing that the pet won't answer back). His loud, very clear voice carried and we often overheard the conversations with Robert and the other dog.

One morning as my Robert was standing up in the van, we heard "Robert! Sit down. Sometimes we don't like to sit but we don't know what could be coming down the road so we sit."
Robert and I were speechless and rolling around laughing.

This morning when we were about to hitch up the van, Robert's owner was taking him for a walk when Robert (the dog) pooed on the roadway right in front of my Robert, who was waiting to place the car in the correct place. For those of you who know Robert well, I'm sure you can see the humour in this. For those of you not so familiar with Robert, he enjoys talking about body functions (mainly his)!

What a ride!!!!!

Watching and  waiting for the gondolas to arrive at the boarding platform built up the anticipation of the journey down from Kuranda to the Skyrail terminal atg Smithfield (not far from caravan park). Having a walking stick makes people more helpful so I was assisted onto the gondola.

We were fortunate to share our gondola with a young teacher from Sydney - she has been teaching Science and Mathematics for 6 years at a private girls' school. She was just as excited as me. Robert looked a little anxious but he chatted and made jokes for most of the ride.

It was a memorable experience and I'm so glad that we could share it with each other. Riding high over the canopy of the trees gave a bird's eye view of the landscape below. We saw many of the features that we noticed from the train but this time they were from a vastly different aspect. The trees were already high in the sky and we were higher again - Robert estimated that we may have been about 100 metres above ground level at times. I don't like climbing a ladder but this didn't bother me at all.

Not long after the ride started so did the rain and whilst it didn't make the journey less exciting, it was difficult to capture any good photos as the lens focussed on the raindrops clinging to the windows. 

I really wanted to glide through the mist and we did! Cool stuff! Crossing the Barron River from a height was another way to see this river again - everywhere we have been since arriving in the Cairns area, we seem to cross this river as it meanders its way to the sea.

As we made the descent from Kuranda, the weather changed as we gradually moved towards the terminal. From rain to sunshine, from cool breezes to warm humidity. The view was pretty spectacular as we could see sugar cane fields, cable water skiing (looked weird with no boat), suburbs of Cairns, islands and the coast line.

I rang Jennifer from the gondola - if I couldn't get access to Optus this high up, it wasn't going to happen.

The rumble and bump over the pylons was relatively smooth and the gondola didn't sway. For once, Robert didn't rock the boat as he has done on other chair lifts - must be an age thing.

The last leg was quite steep and arriving at the terminal, we were greeted by a very happy windscreen cleaner, who told us to smile on the electronic countdown and our photo was snapped. Many passengers queued to buy their $15 photo as well as numerous souvenirs from the gift shop that looked to be doing a roaring trade.

A great day!

Bugs Bobby

Bobby doesn't mind making a fool of himself (drunk or sober) so people walking past the ATM at Bendigo Bank on main street of Kuranda had a bit of a giggle. A picture paints a thousand words - say no more!

Slogan says it all.
I thought all the pooh-bahs could have one - just kidding.

The bunny ears may have been there since Easter - trust Bob to make the most of an opportunity!

Kuranda town

Catching a free bus to the main drag took us past markets, shops and tourist attractions. I really wanted to check out the butterfly sanctuary (not a high priority on Bobby's list) so he patiently waited while I entered the magical world of the butterflies.

The sanctuary houses hundreds of butterflies that flitter through the tropical setting (ferns, tropical plants, water falls and feeding stations). Trying to capture photographs of these creatures is not easy and I wasn't very successful. I really wanted a photo of the Ulysees (a bright, electric blue) but my efforts were wasted.

A breeding laboratory houses caterpillars and pupae with explanations of life spans and other interesting information.

a butterfly landed on a tourist's thumb

The markets were much the same as anywhere else although there were a few that had points of difference. I think I'm over markets - same old, same old. There was a small section that had individual artists creations.

Many eateries to choose from and without tourists, Kuranda wouldn't survive.

After a few hours strolling the shops and markets, it was time to catch Skyrail.

Kuranda

Arriving at Freshwater Station at 9:00 a.m. to catch the 9:50 a.m. Kuranda Scenic Train, we were just in time to watch the departure of the earlier train. The throng of passengers were accommodated by the very long train with the original carriages. The engine was decorated with a snake believed to have gouged the river and created the gorge to reflect the cultural traditions of the local indigenous people.

The station has a museum, eating area, local identity "Red" Lynch's cottage as well as the ubiquitious souvenir shop. Some feedback to the rail management needs to happen - explicit sign-posting would help alleviate confusion and more details from booking agents would also be helpful.

Once again, the area is alive with healthy, tropical plants and a resident green tree frog called Freshy that basks in the warmth of a wall lamp whilst posing for photographs from the awaiting passengers.

Much excitement abounds as the approaching train shunts to the platform where designated carriage signs stop the rush for seats which have been assigned beforehand. Getting onto the train was really difficult and painful because the steps have no slope - Robert ended up giving me a push so that I could get on board. I think my knee has sustained another injury but the trip was worth it.

We sat with a family from Germany and had several entertaining conversations on the way up to Kuranda. The teenagers had asked for a trip to Australia as a gift from their parents after their confirmation. I'm sure the son is very disappointed this morning as Spain beat Germany in the soccer last night and he was so confident that Germany would win.

The commentary on the trip was informative. Picks and shovels with some dynamite blasting were used by the men to dig the 15 tunnels and many cuttings to allow the train to travel up the mountain to Kuranda. The bridges are also another feature to admire. Once again, it's difficult to imagine the lives of those people, who endured hardship, life-threatening situations and diseases although the 20 something pubs along the way may have alleviated some of the hard work.

After 90 minutes we arrived at Kuranda Station, a picturesque historical station with a long platform. It was easier alighting from the train and there was a lift to the upper road!