Sunshine and Cassowaries

We'd almost given up hope that cassowaries actually lived in this region, even though it's called the Cassowary Coast. Camera in hand and at the ready whenever we drove out to check out the local area, the only ones that we saw were fibre glass models at shopping centres or painted on signs notifying drivers of recent sightings or warning that speed kills cassowaries.

This model is outside Mission Beach Shopping Centre.










Checking out some of the local area, we noticed a large group of tourists watching something. Driving to the spot, we could see an adult male cassowary with 2 young following closely behind. They wandered through a paddock where cattle and paddymelons were grazing.

We were unable to get any closer so this is as good as it gets. They are big birds and I wouldn't want to get too close anyway.






Just before we saw the cassowaries, we happened upon a lonely paddymelon in a vacant block near a housing development. It was very obliging while photos were snapped then hopped off. Driving further, we realised that this was a huge colony of paddymelons. They were in backyards, front gardens and vacant blocks. What will happen to them with the development of more land for housing?

Cute little critters. At the moment there's plenty of grass for them to eat.

Rain, Rain Go Away (for a little while)

Rain has fallen for most of the last 5 days - Cairns rain most of the 3 days and Mission Beach heavy rain for 2 days. It is an unusual occurrence according to people who live here or are regular visitors. We're lucky to see 'wet' in the 'dry'. I can't imagine what it would be like in the real wet season.

The grass in the caravan park is like a bog; had to use dryer in laundry which goes against my environmental beliefs; unable to see Dunk Island (4 kms across from park) because it is so wet, misty and foggy.

We tentatively booked an island cruise for tomorrow but a phone call from the company today cancelled the trip; not because of the weather but because of engine trouble. With the forecast predicting 50% chance of rain, we had already decided we weren't going.

South Mission Beach at the Beachcomber and Coconut CP is just across the road from a palm-lined beach and I'm sure it would be postcard material in sunny weather.

Took a drive to Tully this afternoon. It has a sugar refinery and masses of banana plantations. Followed a sign to Tully Gorge - spectacular white water, cascading falls (saw at least 3 from the car), fast flowing Tully River and dense rainforest either side of the road. Even 30 kms inland, there are warning signs about crocodiles in the river!!!!!

Waterfall about half way down - hard to get any closer to take a better photo

















Tully Gorge - a popular place for white water rafters

Port Douglas

Very swish. Palm-lined roads lead the visitor to the centre. Deciding to window shop, we started at one end and returned on the other side. Window shopping was a good plan because looking at some of the prices on some clothes in some shops kept my purse firmly closed. I did lash out and bought a pair of sunnies (discounted).

In my K-Mart shorts and Target top, I ventured into a clothes shop and felt as though I'd become part of a Kath and Kim show with Trude and Prue (although there was only one shop assistant). When I came out, Robert made comment that the face of the woman was scary. Purse stayed firmly shut - cost of a very nice shirt/blouse was $229!

We've been hanging out for some Thai food and we're planning on buying take away and sitting somewhere near the beach tonight for dinner. There are so many eateries here so we may have to check out a couple. Did look at one restaurant that had live fish and mud crabs in aquaria. We eat fish and crabs but the mud crabs had their large nippers firmly secured so they couldn't move around - won't be eating there - seems to be a cruel practice.

Park at Port Douglas

Marina at Port Douglas (more boats than this (looks very luxurious).

Daintree National Park (visit 2)

We decided to return by ferry to explore more of the Daintree National Park. Dubuji Boardwalk is not far from the sea. A huge bonus for me was NO STAIRS or STEPS. This path could be accessed by people in wheelchairs. We were both so glad that we came back.

Another bonus was the weather - it was raining for some of the walk and because the main vegetation is palms with huge leaves and they covered us like shiny, green umbrellas.

living umbrellas sheltered us from rain as we explored this space
















I'll let the images tell the story. Still haven't solved the problem of uploading web albums and I've followed the instructions to the letter.

How cool is this leaf?

Robert kept shaking the trunks of the smaller trees so that rain drops would fall on my head, neck, arms. I couldn't get away so I did retaliate by doing the same to him.

This is him running away after shaking a tree near me.

Thornton Beach

creek running to sea

boardwalk

tiny beaded sand patterns made by a sea creature (probably a worm)

Wonga Beach

Strange name but beautiful caravan park – The Pinnacles at Wonga Beach. Large, grassed sites with tropical palms and other shady trees dot the spacious park. Coconut palms border the entrance to the Coral Sea that is a short stroll through the park. At the entry to the beach is a thong tree – a leafless, short plant with branches bearing old, odd, discarded thongs (as in footwear). So funny! From the beach, Port Douglas can be seen in the distance. The waves are strong and there are swimmers in the water (with the ever-present crocodiles).

Thong Tree

Caravan Park at Wonga Beach - Coral Sea to left just past the large tree

Just before we walked to the beach, we noticed a very nosy peacock wandering around the different sites. He was obviously used to people as he roamed from one site to the next. Absolutely stunning plumage! A bit further away, were some very drab peahens with some other males.


Robert was outside preparing to cook dinner when he called out. A peacock had flown almost 3 metres vertically to a branch above our car so that it could roost for the night. What a noise he made! Loud and almost mournful but it didn’t last for too long. Normally, I have a phobia of birds at close range but (so far) the peacocks have not frightened me.

Gaylards leaving for home via Brisbane

Shortly before 9:00 a.m. July 17th (Saturday), John and Lorraine had packed up camp and left for home via Brisbane where John’s older sister lives. Earlier, John was a bit concerned about being able to hitch up the van and drive from the short site (van is 18’) and the exit was very narrow. He did it easily.



Having travelled with each other for almost 5 weeks, it’s a bit weird not moving out together but it was time to go on our separate journeys. I think we each got to know one another a bit more over those weeks.


Before we were married, the four of us would go camping (and I mean camping e.g. a tarp strung between 2 cars on a beach on Yorke Peninsula; sleeping in a dry creek in the Flinders in the middle of winter keeping each other warm; in a tent on another beach on Yorke Peninsula in sand hills on the eve of Cyclone Tracey). AK (after kids), we continued camping with each other and our offspring but things changed and this is the first time since the 1980s that we have gone away with each other.


John and Lorraine’s car is able to seat 4 adults – with modifications for storage for this trip; our car could only accommodate 3. John and Lorraine very generously drove us around so that we could share experiences, save another car on the road and share navigation skills (that meant Robert and Lorraine telling John where to go when the Tom-Tom got a bit confused).


John and I often joked about our lack of direction skills – while Lorraine and Robert did some grocery shopping, he thought he’d wait for me in a shopping centre so that I wouldn’t get lost – we both thought that Robert and Lorraine may be lost to us forever! Another time, I couldn’t do the climb down to see a waterfall; John returned to the car because there was a disabled access on another road leading to the bottom of the falls. We both missed the sign and toodled off down another road before deciding we’d made an error. Finally arriving at the Milaa Milaa Falls was worth it, they were spectacular.


Last night we reflected on the trip, talking about the best places, worst places, surprises, funny experiences, expectations, disappointments and the weather (of course).


This morning we wished each other safe travels. So far, we’ve sent about 5 text messages to each other telling each other what we’re doing and where we are!

A celebrity

While the others did the grocery shopping at Woolies in Mosman, I sat on the bench outside waiting for them and watching the world go by. A stunning-looking woman, wearing an Irish-green pixie hat, collected a trolley and I looked at her thinking I know you from somewhere. With the brain ticking over, I remembered who it was – Diane Cilento (Aussie actress famous in the 1950s and 1960s and married to Sean Connery for a time). Not long after she entered the supermarket, I looked up to Robert signalling for me to come to him. I knew what he was going to tell me – Diane Cilento is in the shop! I was tempted to ask her if I could take a photograph but I didn’t want to intrude.



Returning to the van, I connected with the net and looked her up. She has a theatre not far from Mossman where she directs and invites actors and other performers to put on shows. There’s also an art gallery and cafe, Karnak, located on the site so we’re going to check it out.

Mossman Gorge

Traffic lights would come in handy or a police officer directing buses and cars at the gorge. We thought that there may have been an accident but we ended up in a bit of a traffic jam. Cars were bumper to bumper with some drivers trying to leave and others searching for a park. We were lucky to drive to the beginning of the walk and secure a park. It meant less walking for me.


Walking into the gorge, there’s a feeling of peace with the skyward-reaching rainforest trees touching shoulders as they seek any available sunlight. The dark under-storey is damp with different varieties of bright green moss creeping along large boulders, rocks and branches.


The ‘old backward walking down the stairs technique’ was put to very good use – there are a lot of them! There are substantial concrete footings that will support pylons for a future boardwalk that will enable wheelchair access to this awesome place.


The fast-running river dodges quite large boulders that have tumbled through this gorge over time. At other times, the river spills over smaller rocks creating calm, deep, crystal clear pools. Whilst there are numerous signs about the danger of swimming at the gorge, they are largely ignored by many visitors, who come prepared with bathers and towels. It must be freezing but it did look inviting.


I really, really like this place! I prefer it to the Discovery Centre; possibly because it looks more natural and you can just enjoy the environment without being disturbed by signs or audio. I hope it doesn’t change too much after the boardwalk is built.


Leaving the gorge was a bit like dodgem cars but John’s driving skills came to the fore and he managed to navigate his way around buses, cars and pedestrians without incident.

Daintree River Cruise

We had the best tour guide ever! Bill Smith has been doing 5 trips a day for 20 years so he knows the Daintree River like the back of his tatooed hand. His informative but very entertaining commentary kept the boat load of passengers listening attentively and rolling around laughing. Anyone who is planning on coming up here should think about taking a trip with Bill on the Nice and Easy Tour. On leaving the boat, he told us to tell our friends if we enjoyed it but if not, let them find out for themselves!

Not long after catching the boat, Bill took us to a spot on the bank where a tiny crocodile was perched on a log. You have to know what you're looking for.
A bit further on, he pointed out a yellow-headed green snake that took an experienced eye to notice it as it perched on a branch of a tree.  

snake is on top of branch - look carefully



in the next photo, look for the yellow head of the snake (to the left)

Finally, we saw a big croc on the bank - Fat Albert! His name came about after he'd eaten a pig that had been left to rot in the river and Fat Albert was so bloated that he "grew" in size.

Bob and John keeping an eye on Fat Albert from the safety of the boat. Once crocs reach the age of 1 year, they can inflict significant damage. They are independent from birth. From 50 eggs, only 2 usually survive past 12 months.

Bill's commentary focused on crocs, other fauna, flora and films that have been made in the Daintree area. Robert's jaw was aching after the trip due to laughing so much.

We heard the story about Bill's one-legged mother-in-law named Peggy; how Steve Irwin stirred up crocodiles to make them attack him; stickadiles (floating sticks); logadiles (logs that look like crocodiles); sugar ants and how not to collect the sweet sugar; flood levels (and the house built on the flood line that he believes must have been bought on the internet); the dog tree that can be identified by its bark and many many more anecdotes over the 90 minute trip. Value plus for $25 per person!

The density of the Daintree and the beauty of the river are explored closely as the boat chugs along. Bill cuts the engines so that passengers can have a close look at crocs, snakes, birds and plants. We all had a good time, learnt a lot and had many good laughs.

As we passed other operators on the river (and there are plenty of them), Bill would raise his voice and talk about the 2 crocs that jumped out of the river and other tall stories so that the competitor's passengers would think about their choice of tour guide. Of course, this was said in fun and good humour between the operators was evident.

We didn't see mega crocodiles but this was because the weather conditions weren't the best. A cold night followed by a sunny morning will see crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks.

Look closely at the bottom right hand corner of the photo - there's a broken piece of wood then some palm fronds - resting just above the fronds is a little crocodile with its snout upper most and its tail dipping in the water.

Daintree Discovery Centre

This is an accredited World Heritage Information Centre and has been in operation from 1988. Talk about catering for everyone - there's audio that can be listened to using a mobile phone-like device; a comprehensive booklet and information posters scattered at significant points on the different walks through the centre.

I didn't want to read or listen to anything; I just wanted to look and take it in. The elevated board walks enable a view of the canopy of the forest which is different to walking at the under-storey level. A canopy tower rises from the board walk for those who want to experience a real bird's eye view. I managed 2 levels but decided to look after the other knee (which is working hard compensating for the dodgy one). Reversing down the steps was greeted with patience by other visitors. One person told me what a good idea it was because her friend (with a knee injury) was in a lot of pain coming down the conventional way.

Is she going up or coming down? An excellent way to confuse people!

So far the only crocodile we've seen lives in the Interpretive Centre - it's a baby croc and measures about 40 cms - that's big enough for me. Looks so harmless!

A few reptiles are also on the other side of glass viewing windows - works for me!  An aloof-looking water dragon appeared to be posing for the camera; it stood statue-like all of the time we were there - didn't even blink an eye.

multi-media Bob listening to the commentary

Dotted throughout the under-stroey are 2D life-size models of pre-historic animals that would have roamed this area. Looking at them in this habitat makes me feel relieved that they're not wandering around now.

We didn't do all of the centre - missed some sections where there were way too  many steps.

Daintree National Park (at last)

I've been waiting to visit the Daintree for over 10 years. I remember reading Jeannie Baker's beautiful picture book "Where The Forest Meets The Sea" when it was first published and wanting to see this special place before it was over-developed.

Even though some of it is World Heritage listed, there are resorts, sugar cane fields, resorts, caravan parks, resorts, cafes, tea plantations, resorts, ice-cream factories, pubs and more resorts scattered throughout the rainforest.

We crossed the Daintree River on the ferry. People have to remain in their vehicles during the crossing. I hate that!!! I like to get out and breathe the fresh air.

The river is wide and the very dense forest comes down to meet it with mangroves forming a margin before the other vegetation begins.  The river is one of the longest rivers on Australian East Coast (140 kms). The crossing is quick and we're heading for Cape Tribulation.

After our first stop for a coffee, we spot a sign "The Bat House" that is not-for-profit organisation, staffed by volunteers and owned by a very generous person who has undertaken an enormous and significant task of re-generating and re-vegetating a large area that had been cleared.

The maps we received were a tad confusing but after some consultation, we headed off through an area that was not a rainforest. Slowly we realised, as we ventured further into this area, that we were being taken from a cleared space to the gradual revegetation of acres of land. It's a very clever concept and very powerful as we could see how much had been taken back to it's natural state. 

A goal to reclaim an acre per year is achievable and manageable when you see the weeds and other introduced species that have choked and covered the soil e.g. lantana.

As we followed the pathway and read about the different plantings, the vegetation became more dense and the light changed from bright, uninterrupted sunshine to dappled sunlight finding its way through the leaves. Almost at the end of the track, we could feel a fine mist as the light rain began to fall and for a short time the canopy provided an umbrella for us. It was really cool to be in a rainforest when it rained and rain it did! For about 10 minutes, it poured then stopped as suddenly as it had started.

not revegetated - thick weeds take up every spare space

forest is beginning to take over the weeds





Bats and other animals and birds inhabit this area and feed from the fruits of the rainforest plants.

an older part of the rainforest that has been revegetated

Multi-purpose stick

 Cow Bay beach was a good place to test my cricketing and golfing skills using Nana's stick. I think I'll stick to spectator sports! I did connect with the golf-ball size nuts that were spread out on the sand but a few airies made for a bit of fun at my expense. Of course, Robert had to show off and hit the nut for a 6.

A lovely beach but once again, crocodile warnings although one of the owners of a caravan park did say that the water is too cold for them - we're not that trusting. Another local told us that crocs don't like mud flats - we don't believe that one either.


Just before the Cow Bay turnoff is a unique little cafe called "Jambu". Lovely coffee (even though mine was a decaf). It doesn't seem right that there are so many cafes, ice-creameries and accommodation places in this area but we did partake of an ice-cream at Floravilla Ice Cream Factory - delish!

Jambu Cafe

A Surprise!

We've been able to eat outside most evenings. Tonight was no exception. After dinner, I started to clear up some food that had been dropped onto the concrete slab of our site. I was scraping up a bit of tomato with a spoon, when out of nowhere jumped a little frog. It leapt straight through my legs and we think it headed for the garden, which was a short distance away. I was so suprised that I stood so still just in case I accidentally stood on it and squashed it.

We're at Newell Beach CP, which is a few kilometres out of Mossman. The park is almost on the beach with a road separating it from the shore. The sounds of the crashing waves is something that we've all missed since leaving home. Coconut palms grow along the shore with warnings about taking care in case of a falling coconut landing on your head. There are also warnings about stingers being in the water from November to May.

Not far from The Daintree now! I'm really excited about seeing this very special place. Tomorrow we're having a look around and hopefully Friday we can book a river cruise and board walk through some mangroves and tropical forest. There's also a Mossman Gorge tour given by the indigenous caretakers - looking forward to that as well.

The Lion's Den

There's something about some pubs that almost leave one stuck for words. I thought Silverton just out of Broken Hill was rather unique (and it is) but a visit to The Lion's Den on the Bloomfield Track at Helensdale (out of Cooktown heading south) is even more unique!

At the entrance stands a strange looking lion that may have roared its last roar many years ago. A giraffe leans precariously against the fence a few metres away. Signs about NO DOGS make it very clear that dogs are not welcome at this pub - must have had a bad experience.

Venturing through the doorway, your eye is drawn to the walls, ceiling, architraves, posts (any flat surface really). Covering almost every spare centimetre are signatures, phrases, jokes and sketches from visitors from all over the globe. It's overwhelming.

A large jungle mural decorates part of one wall with signatures under it and next to it. The floorboards are uneven and it's obvious that OH&S isn't an issue in this place.

The origins of the signatures on the wall stem from the mining days when the miners would collect their pay and visit the pub. Many of them kept a few personal possessions at the pub including their pay. As they spent their hard-earned cash, they would have a record of the remainder and next visit, would know how much they could spend on drinks. It grew from there.

Cooktown foreshore and museums

The foreshore at Cooktown has a variety of attractions to suit most people - the wharf and fishing spaces, cafe/hotel, lawned park with a musical boat, historic statues and information.

The Endeavour River estuary is very picturesque and the water looks inviting but with the ever-present warnings of crocodiles, no-one was swimming in this part of the river.

Musical boat with performances by Lorraine and John

The Cooktown Police Station overlooks the estuary and a park that has a musical boat - an attraction for big kids and little kids. It's a really interactive piece and would be something for the Port Adelaide Enfield Council to consider (an email will be going to them soon).

A life-size statue of Captain James Cook is situated not far from the wharf. The James Cook Museum (located in a former convent) is very informative and presents both indigenous and white history about the invasion and settlement of this area.

Once again, the arrogance and ignorance of the British is evident as the area changed over time and drove the indigenous population from their traditional hunting spaces. There are 2 museums and both acknowledge the original owners of this land and have clearly made significant steps to value the history and culture of the Aboriginal people.

James Cook Museum houses the original anchor and a cannon from the Endeavour with the discovery well-documented. Excerpts from Cook, Banks and others on board the Endeavour provide an insight into their impressions of this area.

Endeavour River in afternoon

from lookout about Cooktown

Sign says it all! Of course, Robert and John had to follow the path to the sea!

beach where recent sighting of crocodile was reported